Fashion Talks Big on Sustainability — But Struggles to Deliver

Episode 124 | 8.9.2025

Fashion Talks Big on Sustainability— But Struggles to Deliver

Simon Whitmarsh-Knight, Global Marketing and Sustainability Director at Hyosung, doesn’t call himself a leadership guru. But ask him what really matters and his answer is simple:

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“For me, it starts and finishes with people. Think about the effect we have on people, how you make them feel, how we communicate.”

That people-first mindset now shapes how he sees one of fashion’s biggest challenges: the gap between endless sustainability talk and meaningful action.

 

The Problem: Conferences Without Clarity

Simon’s biggest frustration is how the textile industry handles sustainability.

“We have lots of sustainability conferences… but what I miss sometimes is, okay, what happens next?”

He describes a sector weighed down by acronyms — ESPR, CSRD, CSDDD — while still running on outdated processes. Brands talk about change, but the follow-through is patchy. The result? Confusion, delay, and missed chances to cut waste and emissions.

 

The Three Pillars of Change

The article Simon had read before coming on the show, Get Ready for the EU’s Eco-Design and Digital Product Passports, gave him a phrase he couldn’t shake:

“For some reason the words holy trinity came to me… because the article was talking about the three things that are so important in industry: one, regulation; two, digital tools; and three, fibre innovation.”

For clarity, he frames them as three pillars:

  • Regulation gives brands a clear North Star on durability, repairability and recyclability. “There’s nothing more sustainable than a garment that lasts.”

  • Digital Product Passports can cut waste from endless samples and offer traceability. “In a few years, we’ll be looking back saying, gosh, why didn’t we do this sooner?”

  • Fibre Innovation is where Hyosung places its bets: recycled elastane, mono-material garments, and new bio-based fibres from corn and sugar cane. “Either we’ll invent something that will help us with the recycling, or a new product will evolve that delivers the benefits of elastane but supports a more efficient recycling process.”

 

The Elephant in the Room

Still, Simon doesn’t dodge the harder truth:

“On a personal level, I would find it hard to disagree that we probably have all the things we need right now and don’t need lots of extra stuff.”

He knows innovation won’t solve everything if fast fashion’s appetite for more keeps growing. But his view is pragmatic: “Trying to do something to move us in the right direction is better than nothing and waiting around for a perfect answer.”

 

The Magic Wand: Clarity

If given the chance to change one thing about the industry overnight, Simon wouldn’t ask for new tech or subsidies. He’d ask for focus.

“We have lots of sustainability conferences, events, discussions, panels… My challenge would be, how can we almost do a meta-analysis of all of those different things? That highlights four or five critical things… and then you’ve got such a powerful platform. For me, clarity of purpose is really important. And that leads to action.”

 

Leading Responsibly

For Simon, responsible leadership isn’t about perfection. It’s about persistence. Progress over paralysis. Collaboration over competition.

“None of us can do this on our own. The problems are too big. We need to collaborate.”

That, he argues, is the only way to turn fashion’s three pillars into more than words.

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Beyond Reporting: Why Rebecca Ward Thinks Sustainability Needs a Financial Reckoning

Episode 123 | 25.8.2025

Beyond Reporting: Why Rebecca Ward Thinks Sustainability Needs a Financial Reckoning

In a small tin-roofed meeting shed in London, where the summer heat clings to metal walls, Rebecca Ward is quietly reimagining what it means to lead responsibly. At just the start of her career, the Senior Sustainability Strategist at Radley Yeldar is already focused on a question that may define the next decade of corporate responsibility: how do we make sustainability matter to those who make the biggest decisions?

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Her answer is deceptively simple: follow the money.

“If we can quantify the financial impact of aspects of sustainability, it will get the attention of the people that make the decisions,” Rebecca explains. “It pains me to say it, but money makes the world go round. So why don’t we try and make it work for us?”

This pragmatic, almost clinical recognition—that the path to impact runs through balance sheets—sets Rebecca apart from many in her field. For her, leadership isn’t about inspiring slogans or glossy ESG reports; it’s about building a language that boards and CFOs can’t ignore.

 

From Science to Strategy

Rebecca’s path into sustainability was neither linear nor preordained. A geophysics degree at Durham gave her the tools to interrogate the natural world—from the mechanics of California wildfires to the physics of the Earth’s core. But it was the undeniability of climate science, laid bare by her lecturers, that sharpened her resolve.

“These lecturers were able to describe it and put out the evidence in such a way that it felt so undeniable that I just couldn’t ignore it basically.”

Yet her first job, in a manufacturing firm, revealed a different frontier: gender inequality. Just 25% of the workforce were women. Rebecca threw herself into a gender balance working group, pushing back against everyday microaggressions and building awareness. Responsibility, she realised, is as much about culture as carbon.

 

The Double Materiality Moment

Today, Rebecca works at the cutting edge of “double materiality”—the idea that sustainability is no longer just about a company’s impact on the planet, but also the planet’s impact on the company. The EU’s CSRD regulations have made this dual lens unavoidable.

For Rebecca, this shift represents both a professional opportunity and a philosophical pivot: finally, the environmental crises of our age are being translated into the one language corporations fully understand—risk and return.

But she warns against complacency. Reports, she notes, can often feel like sterile artefacts of what’s already happened. The challenge is to make them drivers of change—spotlights that illuminate failure and possibility in equal measure.

 

Women in STEM, and the Power of Storytelling

Rebecca is also passionate about who gets to shape these narratives. Having studied in male-dominated science departments, she has seen how representation—or its absence—matters.

She lights up when discussing a recent article celebrating women scientists whose contributions have been forgotten, their names erased from the textbooks.

“If we want to get more women and young girls interested in science and then studying it, potentially then having a career in it, they need to see the role models and feel inspired by them.”

Here, communication is as critical as science. The stories that stick—the ones that change who sees themselves as a “scientist”—are often told not through reports, but through film, books, even TikTok reels. Sustainability, in other words, is as much cultural as it is technical.

 

Leadership at the Edge

What does it take to lead responsibly in this environment? For Rebecca, it is the ability to hold two ideas in tension: optimism and realism.

“Some of the clients I work with make me feel better about it. Some of them don’t… but I think you have to remain optimistic in this job, or what’s the point?”

That pragmatism is a lesson for leaders everywhere. Hope without realism is naivety; realism without hope is paralysis. The responsible edge lies in the uncomfortable space between.

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Andy Last on Purpose, Profit and the Price of Credibility

Episode 122 | 20.8.2025

Andy Last on Purpose, Profit and the Price of Credibility

Andy Last has spent two decades helping companies navigate the uneasy marriage of profit and purpose. As co-founder of Salt, one of the UK’s first B Corps, and now as a strategist and author (Business on a Mission), he’s worked with brands trying to turn social responsibility into more than a PR exercise.

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He knows the stakes. “Business has always had a purpose,” Andy says.

“The question is whether it serves a social need as well as a commercial one.”

That tension — between mission and margin — defines the hardest leadership choices.

 

When It Works: The Lifebuoy Example

The best case Andy knows is Lifebuoy soap. By embedding hygiene education into its business model, Unilever turned a bar of soap into a global health intervention. It was neither charity nor greenwash. “If it doesn’t connect to the business model, it’s just philanthropy,” Andy warns.

“And philanthropy is the first thing to go when times get tough.”

The lesson? Responsibility sticks when it strengthens, rather than competes with, commercial success.

 

The Trust Deficit

For today’s leaders, the bigger challenge is credibility. Decades of greenwashing have bred deep mistrust. “Most people think businesses are overstating their role in society,” Andy admits. “And often, they’re right.”

His advice is disarmingly simple: tell the whole truth. “Don’t just talk about what you’re doing well,” he says.

“Talk about what you’re not doing yet. People can forgive imperfection. They can’t forgive spin.”

 

The Missing Piece: Governance

Andy’s view of what unlocks real change is less about marketing brilliance than political clarity. “We shouldn’t pretend companies can do this alone,” he argues. Without governance — rules, standards, accountability — even the most committed leaders are undercut by competitors willing to cut corners.

That’s why, he insists, government must set the guardrails. Once the rules are clear, companies adapt quickly. Until then, purpose will always be at risk of being outpaced by profit.

 

What Leadership Demands

Andy’s reflections sketch a demanding picture of responsible leadership today:

  • Integration — embedding social value in the business model itself.

  • Honesty — admitting limits as well as achievements.

  • Advocacy — pushing for governance that holds everyone to account.

They’re not slogans; they’re disciplines. And they remind us that the real test of leadership isn’t writing the purpose statement. It’s living with the trade-offs when markets, shareholders and society all demand different things at once.

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Luxury Without the Waste: Justine Rouch’s Mission to Rethink Fashion’s Footprint

Episode 121 | 15.8.2025

Luxury Without the Waste: Justine Rouch’s Mission to Rethink Fashion’s Footprint

Justine Rouch’s career could have stayed on the predictable luxury track: senior leadership roles at Reebok, Matthew Williamson, Roland Mouret, a decade of global expansion and high-margin growth. But when she founded La Pochette in 2016, she took her obsession with premium quality and turned it on a far messier problem: fashion’s waste habit.

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Her entry point wasn’t a runway or a flagship store. It was the gym. “I was carrying my sweaty kit in single-use plastic bags,” she recalls.

“I thought: we can make something better.”

That “something” became a range of reusable, stylish, and functional bags — designed to outlast trends, survive a decade of use, and replace the endless churn of plastic and low-grade polyester.

 

The Unsexy Side of Sustainability

This episode is refreshingly light on green-washed marketing language. Rouch doesn’t promise to “save the planet” with a tote. Instead, she talks about the unglamorous, often hidden layers of responsible production:

  • Working with mills that meet strict environmental standards

  • Manufacturing in small runs to avoid excess inventory

  • Designing for durability so replacements aren’t needed every season

It’s the side of sustainability that doesn’t get Instagram likes — but actually moves the needle.

 

Luxury’s Dirty Secret

Having spent years in high fashion, Rouch knows the industry’s contradictions. The luxury sector markets permanence but thrives on novelty; it tells stories of craftsmanship while quietly overproducing to maintain shelf presence.

“The most sustainable thing you can do is make something people want to keep,” she says.

That philosophy runs through La Pochette’s entire model: timeless designs, repairable hardware, and materials chosen for both performance and longevity. In a culture obsessed with ‘newness’, it’s a direct challenge to fashion’s growth logic.

 

Small Brand, Big Responsibility

For a founder, leading responsibly means wrestling with trade-offs daily. Scaling production could cut costs but increase waste. Moving manufacturing overseas might improve margins but lose oversight. “Every decision has a sustainability cost,” she admits.

“You have to know your red lines.”

It’s a principle she believes applies beyond fashion: responsibility isn’t just about the material you use, but the model you build.

 

The Real Question

The Responsible Edge asks whether it’s really possible to lead responsibly in today’s commercial world. For Rouch, the answer is yes — but only if you define success on your own terms. That means rejecting the idea that growth must be infinite and accepting that “luxury” should mean not just high price, but high principles.

Because sometimes leadership isn’t about scaling up. It’s about knowing when not to.

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Building Bridges or Holding the Line? Assheton Carter on the Realities of Leading Responsibly

Episode 120 | 12.8.2025

Building Bridges or Holding the Line? Assheton Carter on the Realities of Leading Responsibly

When Assheton Carter left London’s high-octane financial world in his late twenties to pursue a PhD in responsible mining, he wasn’t chasing an idealistic dream. He was looking for the hardest problem he could find — the sector most maligned, least trusted, and most entangled in global politics and environmental harm. His logic was simple: solve mining, and everything else would be easier.

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Decades later, as founder of TDI Sustainability and The Impact Facility, Assheton still sees leadership through a pragmatic lens.

“You can’t save the angels,” he says.

Real change comes not from working only with ethical darlings like Patagonia, but from engaging with the difficult, the controversial, and the imperfect — coal miners, commodity traders, multinationals operating in fragile states.

 

Why dialogue isn’t always the answer

The corporate sustainability playbook often extols “engaging with critics” as the gold standard. But Assheton cautions against seeing it as a universal law. In some crises, silence can be the most strategic move. He cites cases where companies facing serious allegations saw the scandal evaporate without public engagement — while others, who entered prolonged dialogue, simply kept the controversy alive.

Instead, his approach is forensic:

  • Assess the power of the claimant (Who’s making the accusation?)

  • Evaluate legitimacy (Is it true?)

  • Gauge urgency (Is the problem imminent or distant?)

Only when the stakes are clear should companies decide whether to engage, go silent, or radically change course.

 

Alignment, not altruism

At the heart of Assheton’s philosophy is a blunt truth: businesses are designed to make profit, not to act as “development agencies.” Expecting them to operate against their core interest is naïve — the task is to align corporate survival with societal needs.

That alignment, he argues, is achieved through regulation, access to capital, and market signals. Without clear governance, even the most willing companies will struggle to act.

“We need leaders bold enough to set the rules — and companies will respond,” he insists.

 

Why governance is the real battleground

Asked for his magic-wand wish for the business world, Assheton’s answer is swift: stronger governance. In an era where AI, climate change, and resource scarcity pose existential threats, leaving action to corporate goodwill is a risk too great.

His second wish? Greater employee ownership and participation. Companies that are closer to their communities, he believes, will naturally be more attuned to what society needs.

It’s a worldview rooted in systems thinking: change the underlying governance and participation structures, and the rest will follow. Standards and metrics — the default tools of corporate responsibility — are, in his words, “the weakest levers” for change.

 

Leading responsibly in an imperfect world

The Responsible Edge asks: Is it really possible to lead responsibly?

Assheton’s answer is cautious but hopeful. Yes — but only if we accept the world as it is, not as we wish it to be. That means working with the imperfect, recognising limits, and relentlessly seeking alignment between profit and progress.

Because in his experience, lasting change comes not from purity, but from the hard, often messy work of building bridges — and knowing exactly when to hold the line.

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