Andy Last on Purpose, Profit and the Price of Credibility

Episode 122 | 20.8.2025

Andy Last on Purpose, Profit and the Price of Credibility

Andy Last has spent two decades helping companies navigate the uneasy marriage of profit and purpose. As co-founder of Salt, one of the UK’s first B Corps, and now as a strategist and author (Business on a Mission), he’s worked with brands trying to turn social responsibility into more than a PR exercise.

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He knows the stakes. “Business has always had a purpose,” Andy says.

“The question is whether it serves a social need as well as a commercial one.”

That tension — between mission and margin — defines the hardest leadership choices.

 

When It Works: The Lifebuoy Example

The best case Andy knows is Lifebuoy soap. By embedding hygiene education into its business model, Unilever turned a bar of soap into a global health intervention. It was neither charity nor greenwash. “If it doesn’t connect to the business model, it’s just philanthropy,” Andy warns.

“And philanthropy is the first thing to go when times get tough.”

The lesson? Responsibility sticks when it strengthens, rather than competes with, commercial success.

 

The Trust Deficit

For today’s leaders, the bigger challenge is credibility. Decades of greenwashing have bred deep mistrust. “Most people think businesses are overstating their role in society,” Andy admits. “And often, they’re right.”

His advice is disarmingly simple: tell the whole truth. “Don’t just talk about what you’re doing well,” he says.

“Talk about what you’re not doing yet. People can forgive imperfection. They can’t forgive spin.”

 

The Missing Piece: Governance

Andy’s view of what unlocks real change is less about marketing brilliance than political clarity. “We shouldn’t pretend companies can do this alone,” he argues. Without governance — rules, standards, accountability — even the most committed leaders are undercut by competitors willing to cut corners.

That’s why, he insists, government must set the guardrails. Once the rules are clear, companies adapt quickly. Until then, purpose will always be at risk of being outpaced by profit.

 

What Leadership Demands

Andy’s reflections sketch a demanding picture of responsible leadership today:

  • Integration — embedding social value in the business model itself.

  • Honesty — admitting limits as well as achievements.

  • Advocacy — pushing for governance that holds everyone to account.

They’re not slogans; they’re disciplines. And they remind us that the real test of leadership isn’t writing the purpose statement. It’s living with the trade-offs when markets, shareholders and society all demand different things at once.

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Luxury Without the Waste: Justine Rouch’s Mission to Rethink Fashion’s Footprint

Episode 121 | 15.8.2025

Luxury Without the Waste: Justine Rouch’s Mission to Rethink Fashion’s Footprint

Justine Rouch’s career could have stayed on the predictable luxury track: senior leadership roles at Reebok, Matthew Williamson, Roland Mouret, a decade of global expansion and high-margin growth. But when she founded La Pochette in 2016, she took her obsession with premium quality and turned it on a far messier problem: fashion’s waste habit.

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Her entry point wasn’t a runway or a flagship store. It was the gym. “I was carrying my sweaty kit in single-use plastic bags,” she recalls.

“I thought: we can make something better.”

That “something” became a range of reusable, stylish, and functional bags — designed to outlast trends, survive a decade of use, and replace the endless churn of plastic and low-grade polyester.

 

The Unsexy Side of Sustainability

This episode is refreshingly light on green-washed marketing language. Rouch doesn’t promise to “save the planet” with a tote. Instead, she talks about the unglamorous, often hidden layers of responsible production:

  • Working with mills that meet strict environmental standards

  • Manufacturing in small runs to avoid excess inventory

  • Designing for durability so replacements aren’t needed every season

It’s the side of sustainability that doesn’t get Instagram likes — but actually moves the needle.

 

Luxury’s Dirty Secret

Having spent years in high fashion, Rouch knows the industry’s contradictions. The luxury sector markets permanence but thrives on novelty; it tells stories of craftsmanship while quietly overproducing to maintain shelf presence.

“The most sustainable thing you can do is make something people want to keep,” she says.

That philosophy runs through La Pochette’s entire model: timeless designs, repairable hardware, and materials chosen for both performance and longevity. In a culture obsessed with ‘newness’, it’s a direct challenge to fashion’s growth logic.

 

Small Brand, Big Responsibility

For a founder, leading responsibly means wrestling with trade-offs daily. Scaling production could cut costs but increase waste. Moving manufacturing overseas might improve margins but lose oversight. “Every decision has a sustainability cost,” she admits.

“You have to know your red lines.”

It’s a principle she believes applies beyond fashion: responsibility isn’t just about the material you use, but the model you build.

 

The Real Question

The Responsible Edge asks whether it’s really possible to lead responsibly in today’s commercial world. For Rouch, the answer is yes — but only if you define success on your own terms. That means rejecting the idea that growth must be infinite and accepting that “luxury” should mean not just high price, but high principles.

Because sometimes leadership isn’t about scaling up. It’s about knowing when not to.

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Building Bridges or Holding the Line? Assheton Carter on the Realities of Leading Responsibly

Episode 120 | 12.8.2025

Building Bridges or Holding the Line? Assheton Carter on the Realities of Leading Responsibly

When Assheton Carter left London’s high-octane financial world in his late twenties to pursue a PhD in responsible mining, he wasn’t chasing an idealistic dream. He was looking for the hardest problem he could find — the sector most maligned, least trusted, and most entangled in global politics and environmental harm. His logic was simple: solve mining, and everything else would be easier.

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Decades later, as founder of TDI Sustainability and The Impact Facility, Assheton still sees leadership through a pragmatic lens.

“You can’t save the angels,” he says.

Real change comes not from working only with ethical darlings like Patagonia, but from engaging with the difficult, the controversial, and the imperfect — coal miners, commodity traders, multinationals operating in fragile states.

 

Why dialogue isn’t always the answer

The corporate sustainability playbook often extols “engaging with critics” as the gold standard. But Assheton cautions against seeing it as a universal law. In some crises, silence can be the most strategic move. He cites cases where companies facing serious allegations saw the scandal evaporate without public engagement — while others, who entered prolonged dialogue, simply kept the controversy alive.

Instead, his approach is forensic:

  • Assess the power of the claimant (Who’s making the accusation?)

  • Evaluate legitimacy (Is it true?)

  • Gauge urgency (Is the problem imminent or distant?)

Only when the stakes are clear should companies decide whether to engage, go silent, or radically change course.

 

Alignment, not altruism

At the heart of Assheton’s philosophy is a blunt truth: businesses are designed to make profit, not to act as “development agencies.” Expecting them to operate against their core interest is naïve — the task is to align corporate survival with societal needs.

That alignment, he argues, is achieved through regulation, access to capital, and market signals. Without clear governance, even the most willing companies will struggle to act.

“We need leaders bold enough to set the rules — and companies will respond,” he insists.

 

Why governance is the real battleground

Asked for his magic-wand wish for the business world, Assheton’s answer is swift: stronger governance. In an era where AI, climate change, and resource scarcity pose existential threats, leaving action to corporate goodwill is a risk too great.

His second wish? Greater employee ownership and participation. Companies that are closer to their communities, he believes, will naturally be more attuned to what society needs.

It’s a worldview rooted in systems thinking: change the underlying governance and participation structures, and the rest will follow. Standards and metrics — the default tools of corporate responsibility — are, in his words, “the weakest levers” for change.

 

Leading responsibly in an imperfect world

The Responsible Edge asks: Is it really possible to lead responsibly?

Assheton’s answer is cautious but hopeful. Yes — but only if we accept the world as it is, not as we wish it to be. That means working with the imperfect, recognising limits, and relentlessly seeking alignment between profit and progress.

Because in his experience, lasting change comes not from purity, but from the hard, often messy work of building bridges — and knowing exactly when to hold the line.

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Expansion, Emissions and the Valley of Death: Can Aviation Grow Responsibly?

Episode 119 | 6.8.2025

Expansion, Emissions and the Valley of Death: Can Aviation Grow Responsibly?

In a political landscape where economic growth is clutched like a lifebuoy, the decision to approve a third runway at Heathrow might seem pragmatic. But for Charlie Garner — Policy & Advocacy Lead at Cleantech for UK — it’s a case study in how policy ambition and climate reality continue to fly at different altitudes.

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Speaking on The Responsible Edge, Charlie’s view is nuanced but clear:

“It is a bit of a shame that the government is considering airport expansion in the face of growth,” he said, cautiously.

He’s quick to acknowledge the economic rationale but even quicker to flag the climate cost: an additional 2.4 million tonnes of CO₂ annually by 2050 — and that’s with optimistic assumptions about cleaner fuels.

 

The SAF Mirage: Betting on Technology That Isn’t There

Central to the government’s climate mitigation argument is the promise of Sustainable Aviation Fuel (SAF). It’s a drop-in replacement that relies on waste oils and bio-feedstocks. But there’s a problem: “In the UK, we don’t have any operational projects in the ground,” Charlie warns.

“We’re relying on imported feedstock, creating a huge risk.”

The UK’s SAF mandate may be a step forward, but it’s more of a policy scaffold than a solution. For Charlie, it’s not enough.

“If the government wants to consider expanding Heathrow and Gatwick, we need to do more than just SAF.”

 

Crossing the Valley of Death

The real bottleneck, Charlie argues, lies in the “valley of death” — the treacherous chasm between innovation and scale. Early-stage clean aviation firms struggle to attract funding just when it matters most. It’s a familiar tale: venture capital dries up, institutional investors won’t take the risk, and the UK loses homegrown technologies to more supportive climates.

“We think the National Wealth Fund should co-invest at this stage,” he says, citing the UK Infrastructure Bank’s potential to bridge this critical gap. It’s not about blank cheques — it’s about risk-sharing to unlock scale.

 

Vision vs Delivery: A Nation Adrift

Charlie’s criticism isn’t just of a single policy decision but of the systemic inconsistency in Britain’s clean tech trajectory.

“You can’t keep changing the strategy every four years and expect stakeholders to trust you,” he notes.

His example? The indecision over energy grid pricing models, which stalled investor confidence and delayed renewable projects.

For a nation that once imagined itself a climate leader, Britain has yet to articulate a coherent green industrial strategy — let alone deliver on it.

 

The Case for a National Mission

“What are we trying to be?”

Charlie asks, echoing a deeper concern. Could the UK rebrand itself as a global clean tech hub? Could green growth be our export advantage?

“There’s not one sector the UK doesn’t have an opportunity to succeed in,” he says — provided the government stops gambling on future tech and starts investing in the present.

It’s not a romantic vision of degrowth or techno-utopia. It’s something more grounded: building a policy infrastructure that enables cooperation, coherence, and continuity across government cycles.

 

Lobbying Without Tribes

In his most passionate moment, Charlie turns his attention to the corporate world.

“We need to remove the tribal nature of lobbying at the expense of climate progress,” he argues.

In his view, competitive sectoral lobbying undermines unified climate policy — and with it, public trust in politics itself.

To fix it? “We need a new model of climate lobbying. One that values long-term thinking and shared outcomes.”

 

The Takeaway

Charlie’s magic wand wish isn’t flashy. It’s not a moonshot. It’s a call for better coordination, pragmatic realism, and long-haul investment. For those looking to lead responsibly in today’s messy world, that might just be the most radical thing of all.

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Why Engineers Had to Set the Standard for Net Zero

Episode 118 | 3.8.2025

Why Engineers Had to Set the Standard for Net Zero

“We are the engineers that have the solutions to saving the world,” says Dr Anastasia Mylona, with the matter-of-fact passion that comes from hard-won conviction, not branding strategy. As Technical Director at CIBSE (the Chartered Institution of Building Services Engineers), she’s spent decades translating the theory of climate resilience into the practice of how buildings breathe, heat, cool—and survive.

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So when UK policymakers failed to define a consistent, credible path to net zero for the built environment, it wasn’t Whitehall that stepped in. It was the engineers.

The result? The UK Net Zero Carbon Buildings Standard: a voluntary, rigorous, and collaborative benchmark for measuring—and more importantly, achieving—net zero in both new builds and retrofits.

 

Not Just Another Framework

The standard isn’t a white paper or a wishlist. It’s a tool, developed by a coalition of professional bodies—including CIBSE, RIBA, and RICS—and stress-tested by over 200 companies. It defines the ‘what’ and ‘how’ of net zero for real buildings, based on performance, not aspiration.

“This isn’t making it easier for engineers,” Anastasia admits. “But if we’re serious about net zero, this is the way to do it.”

She describes the standard as both “ambitious” and “realistic”—a phrase that only seems contradictory if you’ve grown accustomed to the vagueness of corporate climate commitments. The real success of the standard isn’t just technical. It’s cultural. For once, the fox hasn’t just designed the henhouse—it’s built it out of audited steel, daylight models, and embodied carbon calculations.

 

From Heat Pumps to Heatwaves: Engineering for the Future

At the core of Anastasia’s work is futureproofing. Her PhD at Cardiff focused on overheating risk in buildings. Her work with UKCIP and Oxford University centred on how climate impacts architecture—not in abstract terms, but in thermal loads, drainage systems, and human comfort.

“I always wanted to be an artist,” she laughs. But architecture taught her that buildings aren’t just objects; they’re organisms.

“It clicked that the building is not just a pretty thing—it’s a living, breathing, dynamic entity.”

That realisation has shaped her entire career, from technical guidance on weather files to overheating methodologies. It’s also why she sees this new standard as a culmination of two decades of work.

 

Voluntary, Yes. Optional? Not Really.

Why did industry create a voluntary standard when government wouldn’t? Two reasons, Anastasia explains. First: confusion. Competing definitions of net zero made cross-sector collaboration almost impossible.

Second: influence.

“You can’t lobby for policy with ten different versions of what net zero means,” she says.

A single, shared benchmark enables engineers, architects, and clients to finally compare apples with apples.

The irony, of course, is that what began as a workaround now looks like world leadership. “Nowhere else in the world has developed something like this,” Anastasia notes. Already, countries like the UAE and the US are asking how to adapt it.

 

Cost Is the Elephant in the Plant Room

So why hasn’t the government adopted the standard as policy?

In a word: cost. “There’s an implication that high standards come with high expense,” Anastasia says. But she flips the question: What’s the long-term cost of not adapting? Of relying on imported energy? Of making design decisions that bake in inefficiency for decades?

Her answer isn’t just philosophical. It’s practical:

“Net zero isn’t a five-year thing. It’s the entire lifespan of a building.”

 

The Magic Wand Moment

When asked what she’d change about the commercial world, Anastasia’s answer is quietly radical:

“I’d like it to be less commercial.”

In a Star Trek-like future where money wasn’t the ultimate measure, she believes we’d rediscover the value of people, nature, and spaces that actually enhance life.

And if that sounds naïve, it’s worth remembering who’s saying it. Anastasia is not an idealist. She’s a professional whose day job involves translating planetary-scale urgency into wiring diagrams, airflows, and load profiles.

The magic, it turns out, isn’t in the wand. It’s in the wiring.

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